T O K Y O
Shikansen from Osaka to Tokyo. Reached a top speed of 278.7kph (according to my watch). These trains are magnificent, no wonder they were the symbol of Japanese innovation, economic gowth and prosperity, as well as the actual impetus for growth and development.
Shikansen from Osaka to Tokyo. Reached a top speed of 278.7kph (according to my watch). These trains are magnificent, no wonder they were the symbol of Japanese innovation, economic gowth and prosperity, as well as the actual impetus for growth and development.
Anyway! Although I very much wish to get a glimpse of Mt. Fuji, I don’t at all as the weather is hazy. Instead I chill and listen to music throughout. My watch indicates we hit 286 kph (see pics).
Now arriving into Tokyo, I disembark and eventually get to the right metro line! It’s a 35 min ride but I’m excited to see my hotel. It should be nice, and it has a very good review score on a relatively trustworthy site!
Next steps?
After help from multiple sources I
Day 20
From Kyoto to Tokyo by bullet-train (Shinkansen)
I absolutely loved Kyoto and its people!!!!! (see my Kyoto story here)
I set off to the station and then queue for my Shinkansen ticket which will take me at a max speed of 300 kph into the heart of Tokyo on the fastest of the bullet trains, the Nozomi! It will take 2h14min to travel approx. 513km. Absolutely amazing!
For the second time in my life I board the highly esteemed Shinkansen. I’m as excited as by the first time, if not more so as this is a longer stretch and we'll be reaching a higher maximum velocity! I reserve my seat and pay some 13,500 Yen for the one-way ticket. Not too cheap but then again considering the distance being travelled, not so bad either. Come to think of it, I’ve paid more for a shoddy Virgin-train from London to Newcastle, of lesser distance, double the travel time, and tenfold less the sophistication and sleekness – I mean Shinkansens are the bomb! – Note: in Japan, people don’t leave rubbish anywhere, they just don’t do it! In some of the countries of our wonderful planet, some people seem to go about without a care in the world for others (or the environment for that matter), leaving their litter and mess like slugs will leave their slimy trails everywhere they move themselves about!
What: sightseeing
Where: Tokyo
No. of Nights: 6 (Days 20, 21, 22, 23 & 24 of larger trip)
eventually arrive at the hotel. It’s looking promising, quite grand really? I’m excited about my last 5 days, to be spent in Tokyo! I do feel tired though (had a late night last night in Kyoto!) and so I hope it really is nice as I’m not up for any negative vibes right now.
But as I walk into the reception area, I’m not getting the energy I was hoping to get! At check-in, and before I even see my room I embark on the arduous task of upgrading (something I didn't want to have to do), because unfortunately the room-type I’d picked can only be on the 20th floor or higher (even though I’d asked for a low floor and they’d said they’d try their best – why say that if my room doesn’t even qualify in the first place, I mean why not simply tell me at the time of booking weeks ago?!). Anyway, this literally takes one hour, seriously! The guy is really friendly though, and I too was chilled out, as I typically am.... finally I proceed to my room and as soon as I enter, my mood drops like a stone in water, plunging downwards helplessly, deeper and deeper! I know this sounds rather dramatic, but I’m tired (and slightly hung-over), so I’m much more susceptible to things affecting my mood, including my surroundings. In fact, surroundings have a big effect on me (as I'm sure they do on a lot of people, sometimes without them realising perhaps?) Not to say that I’m susceptible generally, because when push comes to shove I make do with what I have and am actually remarkably resilient if I may say so myself! But when, like now, I have relative control of the situation, I will do my utmost to get out of a place which gives me bad vibes, who wouldn’t? I can sense a bad atmosphere, like a dog can apparently smell a cancer tumour in the human body – sorry for the extreme comparison.
The room is so tired, it’s as if it’s been out on a massive 10 year bender and never really recovered its awful ever-enduring hang-over. And it’s making me feel somewhat this way too. The nasty thing is, it literally reeks of stale smoke, and although it’s a non-smoking room, it has to have undeniably once been a smoke-only room. There must have once been so much smoking in this room, that the smoke had nowhere else to go but deep inside the walls and furniture – it’s forever there infused. It, along with the drab stained wallpaper, old carpets and 1970’s décor, makes me nauseous and mildly depressed!! Moreover, I’m still high up! I feel suddenly a bit sombre. A small wave of panic ripples through my skin and prickles me with feelings of heat and emotions of wanting to leave this hotel altogether right away if I possibly can! And as I call up reception, I entertain the (albeit slightly drastic) notion of cancelling my reservation then and there and endeavouring to make a last minute booking at another Hyatt, the one Roppongi Hills!!? I know for a fact the one in Roppongi is sweet as fuck, because I stayed there once on a business trip. Actually, I think, why the not!!!??? The receptionist picks up and says she will send someone up so that I can check out the new room. We hit the other room, and there’s basically no difference – it reeks of smoke and looks and feels precisely the same.... She’s a very nice girl and we chat on the way back down to the lobby – I do feel a bit sorry for her, because although she's been working at the same hotel for the last 7 years, they don't give her the chance to do anything else apart from being a bell-girl.
Anyway, I build the confidence to of putting the previous thought into action – leaving this place altogether that is! To test the water, and I know she has no say in the matter, I tell her I think I might just cancel it altogether and go down to reception. I doubt she fully understands what I am trying to say, as it has probably never happened in the entire long-drawn-out life of this miserable hotel – maybe I’m being harsh. Undoubtedly many people have made many good memories here, I won’t be one of those people though. I won’t stay here. I really don’t want to.
Some personal insight
I realise that I could be sounding really dramatic here, especially to the ‘average person on the street’ who doesn’t know me at all. But actually, once upon a time I suffered from a bout of acute depression, which I did eventually fully recover from. That said, ‘full recovery’ should be qualified: in simple terms, without going into any amount of detail (this is not the time or place - I will be writing more on mental health in the Mental Health part of this site one day), I keep a close eye on my mood, as although I’m unlikely to allow myself to plunge 'far down', a gust of wind or some nearby ripples, so to speak, could help signal to me to make some counter manoeuvres in order to re-stabilise myself – like when you're swimming in the sea, you need to paddle a bit harder when it becomes more choppy, to keep your head above the water. This is never a major issue, it’s just that I need to stay on top of things and stay focused. What with my current tiredness and the feelings this place is triggering in me, I am keen to move on so that i can enjoy the last five days of this two-month long trip in the best way possible!
Disaster averted!
The staff are actually totally reasonable. Perhaps it’s because they can see I’m resolute on this one – I’ve basically made up my mind. That said, the guy who had checked me in, annoyingly tries quite forcibly to first offer me a club-room on the 10th floor (granted he's trying but he's being a bit aggressive which I don't like). I say “no, no I just want to go, please understand”. The manager starts to proceed with authorising the full refund (they are actually very understanding, after all I had now technically checked-in) and in the meantime I’m looking online for vacancies at the other hotel. There’s still a few rooms left, thank God!!! Lowest room type is King though, and it’s rather expensive, but I’m going for it, no question here what so ever – damn, I will treat myself, some things are more important than money – well a lot of things are actually! I'm feeling more thrilled by the second now, memories from my previous great stay there are resurfacing and triggering dopamine production. My mood is lifting, the dark looming cloud is dispersing rapidly, like a super bullet train, wooooooosh! My phone’s battery is at 2% however, and I need to book this fast. As soon as I get my refund, I head to a coffee-shop, put the charger in, order a coffee and book my room! There, it’s done!!! It’s actually done. I can’t believe it. I feel transformed. I’m totally happy again! The lovely waitress escorts me all the way out to where I’ll need to take the direct metro link to Roppongi!!! Sweet woman. Buzzing again!
I first have some delicious Katsu.
There’s actually a direct metro straight to Roppongi! when I’m sitting on the metro, I just feel so fucking chilled it’s phenomenal – it feels like I’ve somehow dodged a bullet on this one! I get there, no issues, my mood is as light as a feather. I’m so happy.
I pay the bill in its entirety so no chance for any stress down the road.... and am taken to my room. They’re very friendly here. The room is at the end of the corridor on the 5th floor. Great, no high floor, and it's just as I remember, an amazingly spacious room with a very nice feel to it. I’m so happy that I'm feeling totally relaxed again. And by now I’m super hungry as haven’t really eaten since breakfast time, which was in Kyoto.
Easy evening out in Roppongi
I head out and eventually come across a nice looking Italian, which is pretty close to the hotel. I step inside and am given a warm welcome, as usual. I order a huge pizza, and some blood-orange juice. She gives me bread and olive-oil! How Italian! The waitress chats a lot with me. She’s actually from Peru! But has lived here for years. She is quite flirty, and I’m in a great mood, feeling very relaxed indeed, so am happy to practice my limited Spanish skills. After a satisfying dinner I scoot back
to my hotel room. I unpack my things, hang up my shirts and am extraordinarily content with the way my trip has been going, even though I’m now at the tail-end (you can check out my other stories of my Japan trip such as Hiroshima, the Kumano Kodo etc., here). I’m particularly grateful that I’m in this luxurious place for the last five nights of my wonderful trip – how intoxicatingly good!
Later I hit the gym, do some weights and then have a sauna and bath session (very Japanese). feeling ever so very good, I go out and about a bit to explore. This is exciting. Tokyo, here you are!!!
Back at the hotel, I have a superb night’s sleep in this nice big bed.
Day 21
Late start and National Art Museum
Today I have a late start, I’m totally relaxed, late or not, who cares! I’m in no rush whatsoever! I am feeling good for sure. I walk to the National Art Museum. I have the umbrella the hotel has lent me, luckily, as it starts to really bucket it down. This is the start of the rainy season!
Inside I look at the Klimt exhibition, and I do so for a couple hours, not just Klimt but other artists of the same time and circle. And it’s quite marvellous. Funny I’m in Tokyo looking at European artwork! But really, its extraordinary. I buy a small print (‘woman in yellow dress’ by Maximillian) and head back to the hotel, again in the rain. I come across a Japanese guy and ask for directions. He’s very friendly and full of energy and questions – like “where are you from”, “where have you been to in Japan”, and we end up chatting for a while, his energy is infectious! I then eat an utterly scrumptious cheeseburger, oh man it’s tasty, not very Japanese but tasty as hell!! I realise, unless you have read my other stories, it probably sounds as if I'm only eating western food! But that's not the case at all! Now I have a little nap! A hard life sometimes! Following this I go for a swim.
Funny, I'm in the far-east, in central Tokyo, Japn and I'm at a Klimt exhhibition! That said, I'm really enjoying it and seeing his work up close and in the flesh is incredible.
I swim for 45 mins and then have a small sauna session. I feel relaxed, ready to venture out for dinner and some more exploring!
Lost in Akihabara
On the way out, I get a ramen. It’s not bad, but not in my top 10! I then take the metro to Akihabara, where I walk around a little, amazed and dazzled by all the neon lights, but quickly finding myself happy to make my way back to the hotel. I have a foot massage on the way back, a very good one. The Chinese guy is nice and we speak about his life here in Japan. It seems that he has a tough existence, but he says it’s a much better offer than back in China.
Back in Roppongi I actually now go to a bar/club, I queue for ages and then have some beers.
Today I go to Akihabara again, but it’s daytime and I’m hoping to have a better experience. It’s full of ‘maid-cafes’ (some are most certainly dodgy(!), others not), sex-shops and not sure what else! Little had I known this is what it's known for..... Hypnotised by all the colours, lights, sounds, smells, I walk around for a couple of hours. Out of intrigue, I walk downstairs into one of the many sex-shops and I marvel at the endless array of DVDs on display (there are hundreds!) At first sight, everything is pretty normal (as sex-shops go?!), at least all of the DVDs I glance at are certainly normal(ish). It's just in the area where the sex-toys are on display that things take a turn for the worst. At first I notice just the 'usual' sex-toys. But then lots of oddities.... and I take some photos of
the more bizarre items… “scent of the woman after sex”, and then I notice something really
disturbing: “scent of a schoolgirls knickers” for example, or “scent of the school girls shoes”?!?! This is really sick, I have to double-take when I first see these. I’m gobsmacked. What the heck is going on?
I can only presume people think this is OK, maybe even normal? Whilst I'm trying to make sense of it all two Japanese men grab a box of this and a box of that! But how can this be 'normal' here? Why? Come to think of it, even some of those plastic dolls I saw in some ‘ordinary’ shops, are of young looking girls clad in short skirts (see below pics). It’s all very odd, and it’s impossible not to be disturbed by all of it. I wonder how others react to it? I mean, I'm not totally naive, I had heard about how the Japanese are really into the whole 'schoolgirl fantasy', but in some ways I had
The dark side of Akihabara: what we see is strange, often disturbing, but what we don't know is probably far worse.
Very disturbing vending-machines in Akihabara
thought it was a bit of a myth, and just wasn't expecting to see it on display like this.
Later on I think about it some more... If this type of thing (in all its shapes and forms) is so easy to come by, there must be quite a demand for it, and it must be socially/legally acceptable? And as such it gets me wondering: firstly, how many Japanese are actually into this type of thing (is this more prevalent in Japan than elsewhere?); and secondly, is this perceived as a problem at all (for me it's certainly a problem); and most importantly, does it extend beyond just the ideas, the cartoon imagery, the plastic dolls (which are in themselves evidently wrong enough) and into the far darker territory of real life?
My mind is perhaps playing tricks on me, because I’ve had such positive overall experiences with the Japanese and I don’t want to think badly of them. But all things considering, at least some of the Japanese actually have a very real, a very ugly and a very perverted obsession, and this is somehow (implicitly at least) allowed or accepted, by virtue of all of the aforementioned. And if that’s the case, then what is happening with the Japanese government, why is this being allowed to carry on? And moreover, what else is happening that we don’t see. If we can see all of this, then what’s actually happening behind closed-doors? I also read some articles on this and it would seem it is indeed problematic. It's a relief to discover that there are numerous campaigners fighting against all of this and trying to protect the young girls. I think all of this needs more time and effort to investigate to get a better insight here.
Yet Japan has been such a ‘good’ place, in my mind. So, it’s a strange juxtaposition. And it upsets me somewhat.
All I know is that the Japanese seem like such peaceful and non-violent non-aggressive people, and so I find it hard to look at them in a negative light, and I naturally won’t let this change my general opinion of them – although there’s clearly a problem with some (how many, who knows?), and certainly with the way the government is dealing with it from what I can tell.
I drop into a famous maid-cafe, this looks to be one of the normal ones – I’ve read that there are all sorts of ‘maid cafes’ but that it's an experience to go to one of the 'OK' ones. This one is very touristy and it’s right next to the station, and so I conclude it will be safe! Parents are taking their kids upstairs so it must be fine!! And yes, it is!!
I pay the entrance fee, and after 15 mins feel pretty bored! I drink up my ginger-ale and try to appreciate the ‘cuteness’ of it all. As one guy says to me, "the concept is just so amazing", I wouldn’t go that far, but I do marvel in the bizarreness of it all. I don’t use up my one-hour time allowance, and leave after about half an hour, even that seems a bit long in there! Anyway, it is an experience!
Relaxing evening in, gazing at the city lights
I have a really very nice evening and drink a refreshing beer in one of the hotel bars. Afterwards, I chill out (for once!) in my spacious room, gazing at the city lights from the sofa by the window and listening to music. I am loving it. It’s one of the best night’s I’ve had here.I have a very good sleep indeed.
Day 23
Senso-ji, via the Nakamise-dori
I drink a coffee in the hotel room, and then head to the station. It’s not pouring yet but looks like it will do.... and it’s a bit chilly today, it’s pretty windy too!
I am heading to Senso-ji – this is the capital’s oldest temple, far older than Tokyo itself! Today the temple stands out for its old-world atmosphere, a glimpse of a bygone Japan rarely visible in Tokyo today. On the way, I see a nice-looking eatery. I sit down at the counter and order from the simple menu – I choose 'number two' (there is a choice of three dishes), and it’s sirloin steak with cabbage and beansprouts and rice and miso. The chef / owner is an old man, very enigmatic, and he proceeds to pull out this big piece of meat from the fridge. It’s wrapped in a bloodied white towel (a bit off-putting) and he cuts off a slab and flings it onto the massive hot griddle. He slices it into 5 chunks and cooks it, it sizzles in its own juices and it smells delicious. I scoff it down, whilst talking to a Malaysian man who’s there with his family of five - a really nice guy.
After this I head to the temple, via the Nakamise-dori (shopping street selling food, souvenirs and crafts, which in itself is actually quite old). The whole thing very old-worldly indeed. And it all captivates me tremendously. I’m feeling good, and I also keep thinking of my relaxing night last night.
The temple precinct begins at the majestic Kaminari-mon, ‘thunder gate’. It has an enormous lantern weighing some 670 kg, hanging from the centre.
In front of the main hall (the Hondo), which has a dramatic sloping roof, is a huge cauldron, with smoking incense. I soon gather that people stand in front of it and waft the (sometimes-thick) smoke over their faces and bodies, as it’s said to bestow good health. I too do the same and later on I buy the incense, light it in the smaller flame nearby and place it to sit in the ashes of all the now burnt incense sticks. I waft some more smoke over myself and mistakenly swallow a big plume which doesn’t feel so healthy!
I also get my fortune told (at the Omikuji), by donating 100 yen and shaking a metal box filled with fortune sticks. The one that comes out will have a number on it. You go to the drawer with the corresponding number and pull out your fortune written on a piece of paper! If it’s bad, you're told not to fret, tie it onto the nearby rack and try again next time! Many people seem to get bad numbers and the racks quickly fill up. They are then emptied into big bins and I can only assume that these are then burnt into ashes or something (perhaps signifying that the bad fortune has been eradicated, evil expelled?!).
Ahhh this is wonderful fun! Afterwards I have a coffee and cake at a local bakery, to then head back to the hotel. I’m pretty tired by now!
Out in Shinjuku and some delicious shabu shabu
Tonight, I venture out to Shinjuku to have dinner and explore. I get there a bit late and manage to get a very delicious shabu shabu. I eat it all up, It’s mouth wateringly good. I then walk about a bit but I don’t like being hassled by the guys trying to get me into ‘tittie bars’ and God knows what else. I see a bunch of respectable looking Japanese girls go into a place that would appear to be a 'normal bar' – I would be happy to have a beer to then head home. The doorman tells me it’s for Japanese only, I do feel a bit offended and ask him to
explain. I eventually find out its actually a type of ‘hostess’ bar where you pay per hour and the hostesses talk to you during this time. Since they only speak Japanese that’s why I’m not allowed in. I wonder why these girls want to go in there anyway? I still don’t ‘get’ all of these bars and what goes on inside of them (the first of which I saw in Hiroshima). I seriously have no clue for sure, but one thing I can be certain of, it's all to do with sex....
Anyway, it starts pissing it down again, and I find the nearest taxi and jump in. I feel pretty good, I’m thinking about last night, and looking forwards to chilling in my hotel room tonight, perhaps reading a book, and I’m thinking I will be on my plane home soon too.
Tomorrow is my last day.
Day 24
It is my last day.
I don’t do a lot today. Its Monday and the museum I trek all the way to is closed Mondays! I walk around some small traditional streets filled with little restaurants, in the rain....
After another remarkably chilled evening, I then hit the sauna, it’s sweet as....
I feel very good and then have my last dinner. It’s a cool place, quite lively but at the same time relaxed. I drink a beer and eat my weird food!
Tonight, I pack, then get multiple alarms ready to wake me for 5am tomorrow morning!
Flight home:
I get the taxi and monorail without any hassle. Everything is easy.
I then Fly home…BA you need to deep-clean your planes inside! Enough said!
I feel amazingly good. My trip was absolutely amazing. I feel sad to leave and well, just sad to leave…
The flight is good, there’s a lot of space and I sit back and watch a movie.
What a legendary trip.